“Let nothing grieve thee, O Land of Ta (Teheran), for God hath chosen thee to be the source of the joy of all mankind… “
- Baha’u’llah
Shahyad Monument, Tehran - Architect: Mr Hossein Amanat
Once again Iran is on the news. This time it is a report about the “most active state sponsor of terrorism” . I don’t remember the last time that I heard some positive and happy news about my country. The Iran that I know and lived within its boarders for the first 18 years of my life has many interesting things to boast about. Iran’s ancient civilisation for example or its many magnificent buildings; its beautiful seasons and some of the wonderful customs of its people; one can write volumes about Iran’s beauty and wonder and I think now is the time to speak about these things so that we can be reminded of who we are and what blessings we have.
Our geography teacher used to tell us that the outline of Iran’s map is shaped like a fat cat sitting down with her cheek to the west, her ears, curved neck and part of her hunched back pointing to the north. This cat shaped country, occupies a huge area covering mountains, hills, deserts and valleys with each area having its own climate, natural habitats and its own unique beauty. In the north for example there is the Alborz mountain range stretched from northwest to the northeast. These mountains stand tall around the southern edge of the Caspian sea , creating a barrier between the northern regions and the rest of the country. Clouds rising from the Caspian sea are often unable to cross them and end up sitting on the northern slopes, creating a wet and humid condition which contributes to a scenic and picturesque landscape. The northern region of Iran is made up of small villages and towns situated around the Caspian Sea and on the northern slopes of the ‘Alborz’ mountains. The land is green as far as the eyes can see; covered with jungles, forests, tea plantations, rice fields, olive groves and wild plants and flowers.
I lived in these parts for four years. My father’s job required him to travel to the villages and towns of the region. During the holidays, we used to accompany my father in these visits. I remember sitting in the back seat of our milky colour Beetle and watching the beautiful scenery as our car made its way through the narrow winding roads of the provinces of Gilan and Mazandaran. The roads cut through the heart of this green land, passing through green fields, forests and meadows, connecting one village to another. Often we passed the local farmers as they were working in the fields. In a clear day the Caspian Sea would shimmer in the horizon below us or the snow white peaks of the ‘Alborz’ mountains appeared above us and sometimes as our car climbed up the mountains, we saw only the clouds beneath our car. The northern villages were famous for all kinds of citrus fruits and in particular Seville oranges and in the right season the air was filled with the perfume of their blossoms.
My memories of these villages are filled with images of Jasmines, Honeysuckles, orange blossoms and local women in their beautiful traditional dresses . We saw them as they cleaned rice grains in bulk, cooked their evening meals or prepared tasty relishes on the porch of their houses which in those days were built above the ground to protect them from humidity. On a round wooden or clay type board and with a special smooth round stone in their hand, they crushed garlic, pomegranate, walnut, olives and lots of different herbs to make the tastiest olive relish that I have ever tasted.
We also frequently visited the coastal towns of the Caspian Sea. As well as a beautiful ruby red sunrise and sunset, the Caspian Sea had one of the best Caviars in the world and its ‘Mahi Sefid’ or Kutum was one of the tastiest fishes I have ever had.
Citrus fruits, tea, rice, and many other produce of the highest quality were grown locally. The best fish and Caviar came from the Caspian Sea and the best meat and poultry also came from within the region.
After four years of living in that region we moved to Isfahan which is situated in the central Iran. The climate and the landscape gradually changes as you move across to the southern parts of the ‘Alborz’ mountains and towards the south. Here the dry climate replaces the humidity of the northern region.
I remember my grandparents’ house in Isfahan. One entered the house beneath a canopy of vine leaves and grapes. The tall wall on the left side of the house was covered with vine leaves. Neither of my grandparents were keen gardeners and yet in their old house with its very average garden, they had Walnut trees, delicious grapes, Peaches, Apricots, Pomegranate, Apples, Plums, Quincy apples, Nectarines and cherries as well as colourful roses and pansies. This was a clear sign of Iran’s fertile land and nature’s kindness to us Iranians. Sadly this old house was confiscated by the authorities and my grandfather was made homeless at an advanced age. His crime was that he was a Baha’i.
Isfahan also had four beautiful seasons always arriving and leaving on time. Spring was marked with tender and delicate leaves and beautiful white and pink blossoms on the trees. Summer saw the trees laden with fruits. All kinds of summer fruits ( water melons, melons, cherries, grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines and many more) ; were piled up outside the local shops and were sold very cheaply. The tall trees standing in line on both sides of the street, reaching out to each other created an umbrella of leaves protecting the cars and pedestrians from the heat of the summer. In autumn nature laid out a carpet of yellow, brown and red leaves in the streets beneath the feet of the passers by and the trees were painted with a golden brush. In winter a blanket of snow covered the whole city. Whenever weather permitted people queued to buy delicious kebabs (skewers of meat, chicken) and corn cobs that were barbequed in the open air as people waited for them in the streets or parks. The streets always buzzed with life. In the evenings people often came out in large groups, visiting shops and restaurants or simply walking in the beautiful parks.
I also remember Isfahan by its beautiful old bazaars , its famous boulevards , famous historical bridges and many other historical buildings. One such place was a mosque called ‘Masjid Shah’. The entrance of this mosque alone testifies to the greatness of God and Islam. Prophet Muhammad appeared to the Arab tribes who knew nothing except how to fight, kill and destroy. Muhammad brought them the Creative Word of God which transformed their hearts and the hearts of their children and their grandchildren. Their descendants transform the world around them by creating beauty, advancing sciences, mathematics and philosophy. This is the effect of the true Word of God; to create; to build and to love. This mosque is one such creation. As well as its beautiful architecture, its geometrical designs, its masterly craftsmanship and its beautiful blue tiles, it also uses scientific concepts in its structure. I remember as a child I used to stand inside the mosque and clap my hands and listen to the echo of my clapping which returned back to me I think exactly seven times. There is so much to say about Isfahan. A famous Iranian poet described Isfahan in a poem saying ‘; they say Isfahan is half of the world but I have seen hundreds of worlds in Isfahan’.
In the west side of Iran Zagros Mountains are the largest mountain range which begin in the northwest and span to the Persian Golf. There are many towns and villages on the slopes of these mountains; usually wherever a river flows. I remember the first time that I travelled to Sanandaj , a town in that region, we were travelling by coach. Against the majesty of the tall mountains and the vastness of the valleys, our bus seemed like an ant trying to find its way through the winding roads. I remember that for miles all I could see was naked land and tall mountains. Then from a distance a few dark green and bright yellow dots appeared. As we got closer, the green dots gradually turned into trees and the yellow dots became apricots that were laid out on the roof tops of the houses to dry naturally. On the slopes of the mountains below and above the road, the roof of every house was covered with apricots.
Another beautiful city in Iran was Shiraz, the city of many famous poets. Whenever I saw Shiraz, the city was filled with flowers and buzzing with excitement Shiraz is also the birth place of the Ba’b the forerunner of Baha’u’llah, the prophet founder of the Baha’i faith. Sadly the beautiful house of the Ba’b, a historical building as well as a holy place for the Baha’is was destroyed by the authorities after the Islamic revolution.
About 70 km northwest of Shiraz lies Persepolis the remains of what was once the Great Persian Empire, ruled by Cyrus and Darius the Great kings of Achaemenid Empire . These kings ruled their vast empire with justice and wisdom. The Cyrus cylinder which is a document issued by Cyrus in a clay form, is considered to be the first human rights charter in the history and an evidence of his policy of religious freedom and freedom of language for the subjected nations under his rule.
The first human rights charter in history (photograph: Marco Prins and Jona Lendering)
The climate in southern Iran is hot and humid. The Persian Golf and its coastal areas are a large source of crude oil and in the waters of the Persian Golf a great variety of fish including prawns and shrimps can be found. We used to get large boxes of dried smoked shrimps which was consumed as one would consume peanuts.
These are some of my recollections of the pre revolution Iran. The climate change, pollution and inflation have no doubt left their mark on the country in farming and environment.
On reflection, one can easily see the greatness of Iran. In most parts of the country, the rich earth can produce all kinds of crops and plants . Where the land can not be cultivated, it can be extracted for oil, natural gases, coal, iron ore, copper, gold, silver, turquoise, marble and much more. There are so many areas in this vast land which have not yet been conquered by man and their wealth remains hidden.
The greatness of this country is also demonstrated in the greatness of its people. These are the people who cook the tastiest foods, weave the most beautiful carpets and create beautiful crafts. These are the people who have great love for life, love receiving guests, are extremely hospitable, love outdoor activities so much that they even picnic at night.
These are the thinkers and academics holding very high positions in the most prestigious universities outside of Iran and are much respected. These are the actors and film makers whose fame have reached outside of Iran and finally these are people such as Shirin Ebadi; the Nobel Peace prize winner, who in the most difficult and suffocating circumstances, continues her fight for freedom and justice.
Iranians are truly great. Let us remember this and pray that one day soon the darkness of ignorance, hate, vain imaginings and prejudice is replaced by true faith which binds the hearts together and creates life and beauty as it once did in our past. Let us pray for freedom of thought and speech so that our true potential is manifested once again and let us live with the hope that such a day will come. It surely will..
”O Thou kind Lord! O Thou Who art generous and merciful! We are servants of Thy threshold and are gathered beneath the sheltering shadow of Thy divine unity. The sun of Thy mercy is shining upon all, and the clouds of Thy bounty shower upon all. Thy gifts encompass all, Thy loving providence sustains all, Thy protection overshadows all, and the glances of Thy favor are cast upon all. O Lord! Grant Thine infinite bestowals, and let the light of Thy guidance shine. Illumine the eyes, gladden the hearts with abiding joy. Confer a new spirit upon all people and bestow upon them eternal life. Unlock the gates of true understanding and let the light of faith shine resplendent. Gather all people beneath the shadow of Thy bounty and cause them to unite in harmony, so that they may become as the rays of one sun, as the waves of one ocean, and as the fruit of one tree. May they drink from the same fountain. May they be refreshed by the same breeze. May they receive illumination from the same source of light. Thou art the Giver, the Merciful, the Omnipotent.”
‘Abdu’l-Bahá
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